This warship was sunk as an artificial reef by the Mexican authorities about eight to ten years ago. Sadly they removed [...]]]> Yesterday, Thursday May 20th, I was in my office, and I was conducting two wreck dives on a pre WWII US Warship that was sold to the Mexican Government (name unknown) not far from here.

This warship was sunk as an artificial reef by the Mexican authorities about eight to ten years ago. Sadly they removed the guns, but opened up the ship to divers by cutting penetration holes all around the ship. Magic!! Whatever she is called, she looks glorious in her new colours of black coral, encrusting sponges of all colours, that literally festoon the ship.

She is twin screwed, and twin ruddered, all of which are still in position, and offer so much in the way of photography. She is about 11m/36ft to the upper decking, and sits upright on the sand at a depth of 23m/76ft. So this beautiful wreck is for every diver, including juniors of a young age.

The viz was about 18-20m/60-66ft, the water warm, with so much in the way of marine life. Huge File Fish, Cortez Angels, free swimming and hidden Morays, fair sized to large Grouper. The list is too long to mention. Between dives we went off to a nearby island, and had our lunch/surface interval. There, there is a bay that comes straight ouf a Jamaican travel brochure. Just beautiful!!

Then it was back to the wreck for the second dive, which was equally glorious to say the least. On the return to shore, and after off loading the dive gear, tanks, BCD’s etc, just as I was about to wave the boat off, there it was, some kilometer (3/4 mile) offshore, a large black roundish fin. I did a double take, got …

We all scrambled back into the boat, mask, snorkel and fins in hand and were snorkeling with a 4m/13ft baby whale shark some minutes later. No one, including myself had a underwater camera with them, and so I managed only to get one shot off of this spotted youngster before gently sliding into the water with her.

We had I suppose some 35 to 40 minutes, but it was worth it and the workout that went with it for sure. She represents the first whale shark of the season here, but she is about the 15th or 16th that I have had the sheer utter pleasure of being in the water with over the last six months. Just another day in my office!!

I think that will be the last good dive for myself for about two weeks as I am starting an Instructor Development Course starting this coming Wednesday, May 26th. Then it is out and out teaching for eight days, plus then two days of exams for my Candidates. I wish them all well for their IDC and afterwards in their diving careers!!

Whenever I am about to head South to Mulegé, I always take time to check Baja Nomad forums (http://forums.bajanomad.com/). The information on road conditions, accommodations and weather can be invaluable. You do not need to subscribe to view the posts and they have nicely segregated the groups into clear sections. The following are ones that [...]]]>

BajaNomad Forums

Whenever I am about to head South to Mulegé, I always take time to check Baja Nomad forums (http://forums.bajanomad.com/). The information on road conditions, accommodations and weather can be invaluable. You do not need to subscribe to view the posts and they have nicely segregated the groups into clear sections. The following are ones that I use regularly:

• General Baja Discussion
• Baja Questions & Answers
• Baja Road Conditions
• Baja Travel Articles
  

They have other groups as well: Baja Photo Gallery, Baja Travel Companions or Convoys, Baja Political Forum, Baja Restaurant Reviews, Baja Accommodation Reviews and others…

Now, as with all forums, there are a wide spectrum of people sporting their own opinions and agendas. So as usual, you may need to take what you read (especially in the political and review forums) with a pinch of salt. However their factual groups (which I use) – such as road conditions, by people who have just traveled south, are invaluable!

Now, if you are interested in knowing what the fishing is like in any given area, Baja nomads are sometimes helpful, but the definitive site is mexfish – so point your browsers over to http://www.mexfish.com/ -

Bahia de Los Angeles, Baja, is about an 8 hour drive from the San Diego border; it is 40 minutes, by good road, from Route 1, yet is is rarely visited by people heading south.

In the summer the waters heat to the low 80s and as there are currents [...]]]>

Heading into Bahia de Los Angeles

Bahia de Los Angeles, Baja, is about an 8 hour drive from the San Diego border; it is 40 minutes, by good road, from Route 1, yet is is rarely visited by people heading south.

In the summer the waters heat to the low 80s and as there are currents in the area, the water remains clear; offering excellent visabilty and photographic opportunities.

There are several large islands offshore which funnel large pelagics, often confined to 20/30 miles off of the coast, to come much closer inland. Blue Whales and Whale Sharks, (some of the most sought after animals to view), can be found just minutes from the beach.

The town itself is basic, but there are small hotels to accomodate your needs. One of the newer and most popular places to stay is Costa del Sol. It is clean, very well located (in town) and the service is excellent. To view a complete list of accomodations in the area view http://www.bahiadelosangeles.info/.

Overlooking the bay.

During the summer there are several fisherman that will take you out on their Pangas and look for Whales and Whale Sharks. In Mulegé we occasionally see Whale Sharks as well as Blue and Fin Whales. However, if you are looking for a more guaranteed approach to finding the giants of the sea, then take a diversion from your planned trip South (or North) and stop off in Bahia de Los Angeles.

The weather in the summer is not as oppressive as it can be further South. However you are still looking at the thermometer reaching into the nineties by early August. The waters here are cooler, however. This is due to the unique topography of the surround large islands and inlets. These islands serve to push the cooler, deeper, waters of the Sea of Cortez, up to the surface. This upwelling brings nutrients and becomes a perfect place for large pelagic fish to feed. Visibility is usually good, over 80′; and while you are never guaranteed to see anything on any given day – your chances here are better than almost anywhere else on the planet.

Cortez Explorers will be taking several excursions North, from our home base of Mulegé, this summer. Most of the viewing of whales and whale sharks are done from Pangas and with just a snorkel and fins. So even those who are not certified SCUBA divers are more than welcome to join us. If you are interested in coming with us, please feel free to contact us to find out more information on up-and-coming trips.

In 34 years of diving, I have only ever seen four Whale Sharks: two in the Red Sea, one in the Indian Ocean, and one here in Bahia Concepcion in May this year. That is until this past November.

There were tales of Whale Sharks just outside San Bruno, a small fishing [...]]]>

Whale Shark from Surface

In 34 years of diving, I have only ever seen four Whale Sharks: two in the Red Sea, one in the Indian Ocean, and one here in Bahia Concepcion in May this year. That is until this past November.

There were tales of Whale Sharks just outside San Bruno, a small fishing village just 42 kilometers/26 miles north of Mulege. This is where we keep Daedalus, our boat. Some reports had stated that there were as many as ten or twelve of these magnificent fish simply hanging around in the waters between San Bruno and Isla San Marcos. More or less the same area as we had the Fin Back Whales earlier in the year.

The head end!!

So our Divemaster candidate, Danya, a great ex-pat friend, Ed and myself went out, camera in hand to dive a virgin sea-mount that we have found. On the way to the sea-mount, we got in the water with four Whale Sharks, and played with them for about an hour. Then it was off to the sea-mount and the main dive. It was a lovely dive, sheer walls and drop offs, and a mega amount of fish life.

We then went out to the local Sea Lion colony where we had been a few days previous, but the water was running so hard, we bailed on that score. We decided to take pictures another time when conditions were far better.

Giving it a tickle...

So, instead, we returned to see if we could pick up the Whale Sharks again. We did, oh we certainly did!!

We spent the next three and a half hours taking the boat ahead of a shark, dropping in the water, swimming alongside, and returning to the boat. My strobe unit decided it did not want to play after a few shots, but I did get a few. The majority are surface shots from the boat, but it will give you some indication of what we had. We counted as many as eight or nine individual fish half way out, and there were four more, at least, just outside the harbor entrance to San Bruno in only 5m/15ft of water.

Off the port side.

Danya and I were exhausted at the end of the day, having spent a good five hours or so playing and diving. There are also stories of Whale Sharks starting to make a return to this part of the Sea of Cortez now on a more regular basis. As always, one can only hope. I look forward to next spring when these animals, the worlds largest fish, start their migration back up into the waters that are right on our doorstep.

I can only hope that 2010 will offer more encounters with as many as a dozen Whale Sharks once more!!